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Thanks everyone for the input.Today's highlighted deal comes via our Apps + Software section of the Neowin Deals store, where you can save 69% off a Lifetime Subscription to AnyFix iOS. I am just glad i do not have to operate the handle as the extra step so I would consider the strut replacement as rectifying the original concern for the most part. I just guide the trunk when it is fully opened rather than let it on its on and swing wildly with the bounce. I have seen this on Youtube as a side effect or byproduct of new struts. The new struts definitely help with opening but when it opens fully it violently shakes and rocks the lid a bit. That is ok and I can accept that since i can just pull the trunk up now without the additonal step of depressing the handle.
After the strut replacement it unlocks and unlatches but still does not pop up slightly. So before when i press the open trunk button from fob or car it unlocks but does not unlatch. She just watched some YouTbe instructional videos.
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Had my 9 year old daughter remove old struts and install new ones. Also check for proper alignment of trunk lid (also covered in Bentley). If it takes more force than described above to get the trunk lid to latch, odds are the buffer stops are "too high" (turn clockwise to lower) and/or the latch striker needs adjustment (it is requiring too much compression of trunk seal in latched position). For instance the hood latches fine if you just drop it from ~ 1 foot open position. Since the trunk UNLOCKS (as opposed to UNlatches) it is likely that the electrical part is OK, although if adjustment above does NOT fix the problem, he should follow the electrical diagram to identify the connector/pin associated with unlatching and use contact cleaner on the pins/socket, and visually check for loose/damage wiring/connector.īTW, my Wagon tailgate does NOT fully latch (and the cargo bin lights do NOT go out) UNLESS I give it a LITTLE bit of downward force (just finger pressure) as I close it (about the same amount of force needed to latch the bonnet/hood). See Bentley Manual, pages 412-12 through 412-18, depending upon model. Since OP mentions that he just experienced ONE instance where the lid did NOT latch properly upon closing, the first thing to check is latch/lock adjustment and buffer stop adjustment. The OP's issue, if his trunk does NOT unlatch after holding that button for more than one second:
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I do NOT have to press/squeeze the latch in the center above the license plate.ĪLL THIS, just so we patricians can be snooty and sit in the car while some poor little plebian loads our groceries or whatever :bigpimp: (3) I can then raise the tailgate by lifting at ANY point. It does NOT matter if the doors were locked or NOT. There is a distinct solenoid/latch click/clack after ~ one second. (2) The tailgate/trunklid unlatches when (from outside) I press & hold the tailgate button on the remote for a second or more. (1) It NEVER raises by itself to full-open height, but it DOES remain open and NOT descend upon my head, so the struts are OK and let's get that concept out of the equation first (and NO, it does NOT open when I move my foot underneath the rear bumper either, but then I wouldn't really rather have a Ford -)
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So, let me try to describe how my 2007 E91 (Wagon) does it, both per my Owner's Manual and my testing:
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Maybe I'm the chief "barrierister" here but my understanding of what thegazelle was describing is that his boot lid "unlocks" when the button is pushed, but does not "unlatch." FORGET RAISING to full open position - we're NOT talking about "power-lifting" here, just unlatching (as CWD observed -) Click to expand.We seem to have a language barrier here - none of us speak/understand English, at least when it comes to trying to describing physical/electrical occurrences
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